Ruined Fieldstone Tower Building
Instructions |
This page will show how to use Mold #70 and Mold
#75 to build the ruined tower shown here.
To make this tower, you will need to cast mold #70 16
times and mold #75 12 times. It probably wouldn't hurt to
cast mold #75 a couple more times (since you're already casting mold
#70 more times anyway). That way if you have any miscasts you won't
have to use them on the tower.
To build this tower, you may want to print out the ruined
fieldstone tower plans found on the Building Plans
page.
It's also quite helpful to look over the section on What is on
mold #75. This article shows how to identify the ruined
fieldstone pieces and how they are used. |
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Building The Ruined
Fieldstone Tower.
1. |
To make this tower, you will need to cast mold #70 16
times and mold #75 12 times.
I'll start by sorting the blocks from mold #75.
To recognize each type of block, refer to the section on What is on
mold #75. |
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2. |
Start by gluing the arch pieces together.
You will only be able to glue two duplicate pieces
together to make a full arch. |
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3. |
I'm using Legos to help me glue the arches together nice
and straight.
Glue all of the arches that you have cast. This will save
you a lot of time later on. |
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4. |
The ruined blocks work much the same way as the arches.
Simply take two duplicate pieces and put them together to
make a full block. |
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5. |
Here are all the ruined blocks that you have cast.
You want to glue together 24 of the ruined blocks to make 12
additional basic blocks to build with.
You also want to make 3 square blocks (in the upper
left). |
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6. |
Here I've sorted the blocks from mold #70.
Be sure you take the basic blocks you've glued together (above)
and sort them into these piles as well. |
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7. |
Next you want to print out the building plans from the Building Plans
page. These are the plans labeled Ruined Fieldstone Tower
Plans.
These will help you build because you can lay the blocks
directly on the plans. Be sure that you do not glue them to
the paper but only glue the blocks together. |
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8. |
Here is a layout of the completed tower. This shows how
all of the wall sections fit together.
Each wall section is labeled, and the printed plans also have the
same letters corresponding to each part.
Assemble and glue the pieces shown here.
These form the hole in the ground in the center of the courtyard.
However, you can skip this piece if you do not want the hole or
tree there. |
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10. |
Assemble and glue together these two sides of part "A".
Once dry, glue and interlock them to make a 90 degree corner. Be
sure to fold the outside edges away from you.
Glue a couple of 2" blocks on the inside. These will
support the floor. |
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11. |
When the corner is dry, lay it down and glue the top
floor in the place shown here. The exact location is also
indicated on the printed plans.
Also glue some of the small angle pieces on the underside
of the floor. Place them far enough under the floor so they cannot
be easily seen. |
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12. |
Position the middle floor as shown but do not glue it in
place. We also need to use it for position on the other sides of the
tower.
The top of the floor goes 1/2" under the bottom of the windows.
Position the angle blocks under the floor and glue them
into place. Do not glue the floor in place. |
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13. |
Finish this corner piece by adding the pillar pieces on the
outside. The exact location of the pillar pieces is shown on the
printed plans.
Two of the pillars are capped with the flat tiles from mold #70.
These flat tiles are 1" long x 1/2" wide x 1/4" thick. |
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14. |
Assemble and glue together these two sides of part "B".
Once dry, glue and interlock them to make a 90 degree corner. Be
sure to fold the outside edges away from you.
Glue the edge of the pillar flush with the edge of the
wall (the flare slightly overhangs). |
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15. |
Position the middle floor as shown but do not glue it in
place. We need to paint it separately before gluing it in.
The top of the floor is flush with the doorway bottom.
Position the angle blocks under the floor and glue them
into place. Do not glue the floor in place. |
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16. |
Assemble and glue section "C" shown here. The blocks
shown in blue are the 1/4" thin wall blocks used to fill in
one arch and part of the other.
When dry, stand the piece up and add the pillars on the
front in the position shown. |
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17. |
Assemble and glue section "D" shown here.
When dry, stand the piece up and add the pillar on the
front in the position shown. |
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18. |
Assemble and glue section "E" shown here.
When dry, stand the piece up and add the pillars on the
front in the position shown. |
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19. |
Assemble and glue section "F" shown here.
Glue together the stack of blocks shown.
When dry, stand the piece up and glue the block stack to
the back of the arch piece and add the pillars on the front
in the position shown. |
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20. |
Assemble and glue section "G" shown here. The blocks
in blue are thin wall blocks used to fill the arches.
Glue together the stack of regular blocks with the small arch
shown. |
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21. |
Glue the strip of blocks onto the right edge of the wall.
Then glue the pillars and skulls onto the wall as shown. |
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22. |
On the back side of the wall, glue the pillars and skulls
shown.
The flat part of the left pillar is 1/2" inch away from the edge
of the wall. |
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23. |
Assemble and glue section "H" shown here.
Afterward, assemble and glue the full pillar shown. This
pillar will eventually go under the center of the large arches on
piece "H". However, we'll leave it separate until after it's
painted. |
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24. |
Assemble and glue stair "i" shown here. This piece uses
the largest arches that are on the mold.
Once dry, stand it up and add the small bricks onto one
side of the stairs along with the floor tile on the very
top. |
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25. |
Gather the small bricks, floor tiles and
thin wall blocks shown here. These will be used for the
steps.
Glue the tiles and blocks down as shown here. Alternate between
using the good steps and the ruined steps as you go along.
You'll notice that the unshown side of the stair case will have
some holes in it. Don't worry about these because that side of the
stairs will go against a wall. |
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26. |
That should be all of the pieces for the ruined tower. Spread
out the printed floorplan, set the pieces on it and make sure
they fit properly.
The printed plans are found on the Building Plans
page labeled Ruined Fieldstone Tower Plans.
Gather the remaining ruined blocks. These will be set on top of
the walls next. |
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27. |
Start placing and gluing the ruined blocks on top of the
walls. I prefer to place all of the ruined blocks on first, see how
it looks, then go back and glue them in place afterwards.
Be sure that you keep in mind where the sections separate.
You don't want to accidentally glue two sections together by
bridging them with a ruined block.
Add ruined blocks to any surface that looks too flat or clean.
Don't forget to scatter a few small stones around! |
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28. |
Here are all of the pieces to the ruined fieldstone tower. You
can see all of the tops have the ruined blocks glued on them.
At this point you want to paint the sections completely
before assembling them. For this tower I've used the castle
gray color scheme. You can find these colors on our Painting
Instructions page.
The remainder of the instructions on this page will show how to
make a rock base for the tower to set on. |
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Making a Rock Base
1. |
The rock will be made of polystyrene foam insulating
board. This is the stuff they use for insulating houses before
they put siding on. You can get it at most lumber yards and it
usually comes in pink or blue in thicknesses of 1/2", 1", 2" and
even 3".
For this project we're going to use two pieces of 1/2"
thick board that are 12" square. |
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2. |
Using a pair of scissors, trim around the floor plan as
you see here. The printed plans are found on the Building Plans
page labeled Ruined Fieldstone Tower Plans.
Lay the plan down on the foam and draw around the outside
of it with a pen.
Poke 4 holes around the outside edges of the square in the
center of the courtyard. |
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3. |
Connect the 4 dots and cut a square hole in the center of
the foam with a hobby knife.
Afterwards, glue the two foam sheets together.
Use a knife to bevel the outside edge of the foam
slightly. Don't go past the line! |
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4. |
Using a hobby knife, carve the edge of the foam to look
like rock.
For detailed instructions on how to do this, look at our Tips &
Tricks 9 page. |
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5. |
I painted the rock edge using the same castle
gray colors used on the tower.
Next, I glued the block edge down into the square I had
cut. |
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6. |
I made the tree using roots as shown on my Tips
& Tricks 13 page.
I drilled a hole in the bottom of the tree and glued in a pointed
stick.
The roots I made using epoxy putty rolled into thin cone shapes.
They were painted afterwards. |
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7. |
I added ground cover around the tree before I glued the ruined
tower walls on (it was easier to reach that way).
To add the ground cover, start by painting the foam with dirt
colored latex paint. |
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8. |
While the paint is still wet (paint it on thick), sprinkle
different colors of ground foam on top. I'm using Woodland
Scenics products here.
A spoon will make it easier to reach into the corners. I'm using
dead colors (yellow and muted green) to give the ruin more of an
abandoned look.
You'll also notice that I've placed a few broken stones on
the ground and painted them gray before adding the ground cover.
Once the paint is dry you can turn the whole thing upside down
and give it a good shake to remove the excess ground cover. |
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Click on a photo to view a larger version of it.
Since the ruined fieldstone pieces interlock to make full
blocks, these pieces can also be used to make removable
sections. Imagine a building that is whole, but when you lift
off the top you're left with a ruin.
To learn how to make removable sections like this, visit
our Tips
& Tricks 23 page. |
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http://www.hirstarts.com. All photos, articles and
plans are copyrighted by Bruce Hirst and may not be used without
permission. "Castlemolds(R)" is a trademark of Hirst Arts Fantasy
Architecture Inc. For more information contact mailto:bruce@hirstarts.com Page last
updated 8/9/07 |